Patek Philippe’s World Time series watches are the model of such complicated timepieces in the industry and occupy a unique position in the history of the brand. It is an interesting subject to stop and review its original origin and development.
Although it is a bit redundant, it is still necessary to mention the unknown fans: the mechanism used in the history of the first Patek Philippe world time series watch originated from an independent watchmaker-Louis Cottier -1966). The world time mechanism came out in the 17th century, first in the form of a clock. Louis Coutier worked closely with Patek Philippe to bring this dusty relic back to the world.
The picture above shows a sketch by Louis Coutier, showing the planning principles for designing a world time watch. It can be seen that the mechanism is constantly evolving, improving and optimizing, in order to achieve more convenient adjustment and identification. No longer too much, here are the different models of world time series watches made in the history of Patek Philippe.
Patek Philippe’s first modern world time series watch was 515, which began in 1937 and was designed by a brand for a New York customer. The case is Art Deco-inspired and measures 25 mm x 42 mm. The watch is equipped with a 12-120 movement, equipped with a world time module developed by Louis Curtier, based on Greenwich Mean Time. The crown can be used to set the time, adjust the 24-hour circle, and dials with 28 city names. It is fixed (non-rotatable). It used to be considered an orphan, but now it seems to be one of three.
The 96 HU, shown in 1939, shows the time in 28 cities, with a case diameter of 30.5 mm. In 2011, Christie’s and Sotheby’s each shot a 96 HU.
The unique 130 was produced in 1939 and has a diameter of 33 mm. It is equipped with a chronograph function and two square buttons. Although the names of 24 cities are marked on the dial, this watch is not equipped with a world time movement, it is based on Berlin at 12 o’clock and displays different time zones.
Produced in 1938, with a diameter of 28 mm, the bezel is marked with 30 city names, which can be manually adjusted by setting. There are four known today. The 542 HU is equipped with wide discriminating lugs, making it the smallest watch in the history of Patek Philippe.
Pocket watches, 44 mm in diameter, produced in the 1940s and 1960s, marked with 42 city names. Available in black dial.
Filament enamel plate (because of the increase in size, the first one depicts a complete world map).
Of course, there are also silver plate models.
This 1415 HU gold watch is 31 mm in diameter. It was produced in about 1939 or 1940 and is particularly rare. 28 city names are marked, and the large bezel can be rotated to set the local time. The first enamel dial (continental pattern) of the Patek Philippe World Time series watch appeared on this model. The teardrop-shaped lugs are a distinctive feature of the 1415 HU. In history, a platinum case with silver plate 1415 HU has set a record price for watch auctions. 1415 and 2523 are equipped with 12-400 manual winding movement.
Filament enamel plate.
And a very rare 1416 HU (labeled with 30 cities) with unique ‘claw’ lugs.
Next is a probably unique 1415-1 with a diameter of 35 mm and 33 city names. It was produced in 1940 and was specially made for P. Schmidt. It is equipped with a timing function and ’15 pulses’ and ‘5 breaths.’ ‘Scale. This watch is equipped with a 13 ‘Valjoux ebauche movement and is beautifully retouched. The wrist is hidden in the Patek Philippe Museum and can be seen in many catalog covers and brand documents.
The 2523 HU, which was sold between 1953 and 1965, has a diameter of 35 mm and is marked with about 40 city names. The 2523 HU has two crowns, one for the standard time display and one for the time zone setting. This is different from the 1415 (which has a crown and a manual rotating bezel). Patek Philippe later introduced 5110 and 5130, and its layout was derived from 2523 HU.
Also available in silver guilloche, translucent enamel or filigree enamel. Here is a beautiful gold guilloche dial.
Guilloche version with different center panel.
Blue translucent enamel plate.
North American outline enamel plate.
European contour enamel plate.
The 5110 (24 time zone) was produced between 2000 and 2005. For the first time, Patek Philippe’s World Time watch is equipped with a 240/188 movement. The watch took four full years from design and development to production and completed the transition from manual winding to automatic winding. A major evolution compared to 2523, 5110 is that the local time setting is achieved by the button at 10 o’clock instead of the crown at 9 o’clock. This mechanism prevents the wearer from moving the minute hand while setting the hour hand, thereby effectively avoiding time errors during the adjustment process.
From the 5110, you can see the shadow of many previous generation models, such as the 5127 case (crown shoulder and round bezel) and the guilloche dial of the 2523 HU. The first is a platinum model.
5110R rose gold.
Patek Philippe has also launched limited editions in Taipei, Doha, Münster and Singapore (the corresponding city names are marked in red).
The 5130 seen today came out in 2006 and is equipped with an evolutionary 240 movement. This movement is also used in 5131. The main differences between 5130 and 5110 are the case size (from 37 mm to 39 mm), the case, the bezel There is no change in the aesthetic design of the lugs, so the 5130 can be regarded as a modern evolution of the 5110 (in case size). In addition, the original central guilloche pattern of the 5110 has been replaced with a sun pattern and appliqued hour markers here.
The 5130 also has some limited editions. For example Shanghai (red and platinum).
Mecca (platinum, limited to 150 pieces).
Munich (decorated with different guilloche patterns).
5131 announces the return of the Patek Philippe World Time Series enamel-decorated central dial, each version being awarded a different part of the world map. J Gold Edition depicting the Atlantic Ocean.
Platinum edition depicting Eurasia.
A rose gold version depicting the Pacific Ocean.
A watch designed for the Children Charity charity auction in 2012.
Of course, don’t forget that Patek Philippe celebrates the 175th anniversary of the brand’s founding, in white gold and decorated with the Geneva Lake pattern.
Another Patek Philippe celebrates the 175th anniversary of the brand’s founding: 5575G, equipped with a moon phase profit and loss display function, which makes it uniquely attractive compared to previous models.
Summary: The Patek Philippe World Time Series watch is easy to read at a glance, without the need for additional operation of the crown button. The 24-hour day and night display makes it easy and practical for the wearer to obtain time information anywhere in the world. Like many other complicated functions, Patek Philippe fully grasps the original world time layout. Since the first modern model was released in the 1930s, it has continued to evolve and improve, introduce new ones, and provide more sincere works for world watch fans.